Unimog 6×6

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When I’ve added the rubber around the windshield, tried the same on the side windows but couldn’t glue the tube around that smaller opening and quit. Now,I’m back to it with a different approach

Paper template and then passed to PVC sheet:

 

First cuts:

 

After some sanding:

 

And painted:

 

 

[Member mark Scale Off Road Pro★★★★★★]

Your rubbers look way better than mine and they’re rubber. Seriously impressive.

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mark wrote:

Your rubbers look way better than mine and they’re rubber. Seriously impressive.

Well,thanks…I think I don’t see your’s. To be honest,the first time I did this, came out pretty bad. But was a while ago

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This is the new upgraded transfer case. Same dimensions to fit the skidplate. Designed around these new 24t M1 pinions instead of the stock scx10 gearbox gears. The idea was to get rid of the 1:1.7 redution(truck was painfully slow) and try to connect to the 3rd axle via this pinion on the right that will have an output shaft facing the rear,instead of the 2nd axle being a pass-through. Case printed in PLA+,gears are steel, running on 7×14 bearings and ignore those 5×10 bearings that are only spacers

https://youtu.be/b3zy2yfu4rU

 

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Was doing some tweaks on the rear axles and last weekend was ready to print but my printer gave up in need of some TLC.

This weekend the printer works like brand new and I’m doing these 4 sections. The third axle is done, helicoils applied and bearings’ grooves corrected . I was about to doing a centered 3rd axle but I’ve offset the pumpkin 15mm to improve driveshaft angles. From reference photos, this model of Unimog axles are slight offset so no harm done 🙂

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A bit of progress:

Modified the portal covers, making them stronger without messing much with the look. Printed 4 but did 2 more and upgraded also the front axle.

 

 

Middle axle:

 

 

Third axle

 

 

Because the offset diff of the third axle, had to do new unequal shafts

 

 

Middle axle with the driveshaft bearing carrier

 

 

Assembled…have to organize all the wiring again…

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Do you believe that I still couldn’t drive this new setup besides trying it indoors?
Sometimes I think why I have RCs…they’re more static models…

Did this to move the battery to a more practical location

I’m planning add some sort of connector on the bottom in order to take out the whole box to replace the battery instead of doing “finger olimpics” inside the cargo area

[Member mark Scale Off Road Pro★★★★★★]

Very nice. Battery swaps are the bain of my existence.

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A little drive

https://youtu.be/R3UPPfrg49k

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Alright,is that time of year again,time for change…

One thing I think I need to improve in this truck is the front axle width. Wheels stick out from the fenders and there’s too much scrub radius from the added width of the portal boxes,making the tires rub

So I’ve gather some parts and make new portal boxes:

Yes, they look similar,albeit being made from scratch instead of copying the old ones.

I’m using a 12t portal gear and universal shafts from Capra. The big gear is the same 25t 32dp pinion but inverted(The section where the grub screw is fits perfectly on a 10x15x4 bearing!

At the moment, each portal box measures 5,5mm less than the old ones which is great. I can narrow the axle housing if needed,even if it don’t solve the scrub radius problem

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I’m not that happy with the printed files. They are strong but don’t look that good. For now,they’ll suffice but I’ll try to improve. Switched ASA to PLA+ and helicoils to thread directly on plastic. Helicoils are cool but sometimes they would unscrew itself.

As it stands:

It has the diff,bearings and torquetube. Uni shafts turn smoothly so the dimensions seem right. Just need to shorten them 15mm each to be mounted in place

 

Assembled them, taking care of some rubbing.

On the truck , visually,there’s virtually no difference although being a brand new axle. Also, got rid of the helicoil threads. Was a bit of work, putting all of them and not always were strong as I thought . The panhard screw was always loose

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Sunset drive

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