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This topic contains 38 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by ScaleAddict 1 week, 2 days ago.

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  • #104858
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    Machined portal axles sounded better in my head. We don’t have a CNC machine at work so even with lot of work these parts would look rather crude. I thought in 3d printing which allow for the “casted part” look I was searching for

    This it’s the first prototype

    This was the improved version mounted on a scx10 axle:

    The spheres on the housing ends meet 2 purposes:
    -look more like the 1:1
    -the portal boxes widen the axle 18mm so I’ve narrowed 20mm

    First prototype of the rear ones:

    mounted on SSD housings look awesome:

    #104866
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    Hi guys,

    well, I had the first headlights for the ‘mog 3d printed but they weren’t 100% what I wanted, so armed with fresh noob solidworks skills I tried my best to replicate the real ones:

    https://www.benzworld.org/forums/attachments/unimog/511342d1366848375-world-premiere-new-unimog-av-grill.jpg

    They turned out alright

    Some aluminium foil to spread the light

    I think they look better..

    They’re mounted on a new bumper that’s exactly the same as the old one. Had to make another because I’d took it to the shop, painted it and someone lost it somehow. Probably thrown into the trash

    #105089
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    <p style=”text-align: left;”>The portal axles raised everything 15mm,the truck looked like a monster truck and it needed a new chassis. Kept delaying it but One day,after work, had one of those “now or never” moments,blueprints in hand and 10m later:</p>
     

     

     

     

     

     

    Looked out of scale, made of 16mm tubing but the 1:1 blueprints showed 17cm frame rails so it will work out

     

     

     

    Got a Helios 2sp a while ago on a deal and even if it’s a small size 2sp gearbox, that size don’t allow being on many builds. This ‘mog has plenty of space for one.I don’t really need 2sp but I dig the scale looks of it

     

     

    In my current chassis, used a Scx10 skidplate but the new one has to be custom to accommodate the Helios.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    At ride height

     

     

     

     

     

    Sorted out the links mounts. Not pretty but was the best idea

     

    IMG_20170131_132754

    #105133
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    Well, the new chassis has new link mounts so I have to reduce all the links. Also, the Helios it’s longer than the previous transfer box so I needed shorter driveshafts. My buddy The Gamer needed longer ones and we made a trade

    The axles weren’t really finished. There was some rubbing inside of the portals and against the rim. The rims only needed a bit of machining. Pretty tight,eh? :

    Now I have 2 rear axles looking like this, no frictions. Pretty smooth, actually

    The front parts are a different history. The steering was kind of limited because the dogbone cup was binding on the inside of these axle ends.

    On the left, stock. On the right, what I had to dremel to solve the problem:

    And how it looks without the axle housing:

    The rear shock mounts now

     

    Some Unimogs are like this:

    my take on them:

    Had to invert the location of the shock/spring because of the sxc10 axle. Uses a long scx10 spring and these nice 60mm shocks:

    #105154
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    Very nicely done,  I do love a proper coil spring set up.

    #105162
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    <p style=”text-align: left;”>Thanks retrocosm! Visually, it looks a lot better</p>
     

     

    Unimog  is a good truck to build but M548 stole all the attention. Tired of having all the parts scattered in boxes, assembled everything.

    The chassis progressed. New crossmember, battery craddle and the rear shock mounts are  in place

    All the links(i know, Unimogs don’t have links…)

    Forgive me the lack of torquetubes with photos of ground clearance

    #105183
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    I wanted to make the truck standing on it’s own so the work order was: front axle truss, panhard and upper link and spring/shock mounts

    The truss

    Started with the axle springs mounts, similar to the 3d printed i have in the back but in steel to be welded

    Added a 5mm square steel rod,tight to the housing

    To finish, the panhard mount next to the knuckle and the angled upper link mount

    The idea behind the truss was making it low profile so it wouldn’t hit the frame rails but in the same time, looked from factory. The angled link mount allows to use straight rods and has a thread to avoid the “nut and bolt”

    #105197
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    The spring mounts:

    In place:

    Next, secure the bumper

    #105208
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    The bed

    It’s first iteration was made mainly in balsa wood, sounded like a good idea at the time:

    Painted, looks good enough but can’t handle the trails

    So,had to do another and using the opportunity to make it wider because that was another mistake I’ve made. So, this one is 30mm wider

    First, the bottom:

    And then, one side:

    Back:

    With primer:

    It’s the first time I’ve worked with tooling foil. It’s fun stuff

    Honestly, hadn’t a fixed idea on what to do besides a floorboard look

    Scribed the all the lines and started with the “nails”:

    After all the nails, some black spray, a bit of sanding to do a kind of black wash,apply a heavy duty metal brush to do a wooden texture and finally the brown:

    more zoom!

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    Honestly, i was surprised with the result as the paint could fill the texture of the metal brush but turned out nice. A mate clear coat in the end will take the shine away

    #105233
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    More on the rear bed,has hinges, only need to replace the lower screws for shorter ones:

    Very satisfied with the bed width, the bedsides drop perfectly

    About the bedsides:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNUlchGRg0Q

    It’s time for ziptie all the electronic and try some rocks:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDJQcLNCwFY

    #105241
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    Wow, that bed floor looks superb, great finish.

    #105242
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    Wow, that bed floor looks superb, great finish.

    Thanks!

    more on the bed:

    The bedsides open,good…but they have to stay closed most of the time so i’ve came with an idea that it’s not hard to execute and don’t look out of place

    First, machined these 3mm pieces with a 1.5mm hole for the pin (dowel?):

    then, made the part that bolts on the bedside:

    The black bolts should be countersunk but the tool failed on me so had to use these ones. The chain will be replaced if I find a smaller one

    All the latches done, rear tailgate and it’s steps:

    Bishop approves:

    #105277
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    <p style=”text-align: left;”>There’s a first look at the bed, painted in camouflage green from Krylon</p>
     

     

     

    #105359
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    The steering. Didn’t want to see the servo or servo horn when looking from the front so i did this:

    https://youtu.be/4iCBtbEOgjg

    Not fancy nor groundbreaking but with the cab on top, the only thing showing will the the fake steering box

    #105362
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    Small detail that was bothering me for some time:

    Long time ago,I’ve ordered a Axial parts tree only for the door handles. Not lazyness, only lack of skills. But the tree only had 2 so they went to the doors. Now, I can do stuff out of Styrene 🙂

    Also carved the holes, they’re not painted because I’m doing underside detail on the hood

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