Scale RC Forum Forum Members’ Builds Off-Road builds My take on the TRX-4. Ford F-100 with Rear Cage!

This topic contains 7 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Retrocosm 8 hours, 4 minutes ago.

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  • #105087
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Having never really been much of a fan of Traxxas (probably due to not ever buying RTR’s) the TRX-4 has been off my radar. However, when they released a kit version, my eyes were opened.

    So, here’s my take on the TRX-4 Sport. I was waiting for the new Sport kit to arrive in the UK, but I got impatient and picked up a Kit with the electrics instead. I sold off the ESC, wheels, tires and body etc. I’ve added the SSD portal covers and front overdrive to start with, and I’ve got a Mamba X with 2280kv motor to go in.

    I spent some time looking at body options. I want this to be a performer so all the massive top heavy bodies were out. I’ve got a few RC4WD Mojave cabs that I had thought about adding a cage to, but they just looked a little too small. So, I settled on the Pro-line Ford 1966 Cab. I’ll be adding a simple, low rear cage to neaten up the back end.

    Here’s the start.

    The body is the perfect width for the stock sliders, but I had to trim them a little and lift them up 5mm.

    It seems to me that Traxxas have really thought about the versatility of the TRX-4. I love the fact that I can use a small lipo up front for performance, or a larger one in the middle for trail running. Thumbs up.

    I lengthened the wheel base 6mm and switched the rear shock mounts around. So, I had to cut a little bit out to allow them to clear the middle fixing bolt. I know I could have left the middle bolt out, but I thought as it’s there I’d use it.

    This allows the rear shocks to lay down a little.

    Now, next up was the rear cage. This caused me more headache than any other metal work I ever done. I wanted to attach the rear hoop to the chassis, but as the rails bend in towards the rear axle, the 2 mounting tabs had to be brazed at an angle to make them work. The problem I was having was how to hold them in position while I took it off to braze, without them moving.

    I spent 2 evenings coming up with several methods that didn’t work. Then, on the 3rd night, I had a brain wave. I decided to cut a piece of 1/4” alloy bar I had to the same profile as the chassis rails and bolt the mounts to that to braze them. This worked out perfect.

    Here’s the issue I was having.

    The 3 pieces of the 3rd attempt.

    And here’s the solution.

    And the finished result. Perfectly square… just how I like it.

    I guess it’s a lot of effort to go to just to get one part of the cage right, but it was worth it.

    I made a start this evening on the next part of the cage, but decided to call it a night. The next piece is bent up, and tomorrow I’ll get it brazed into place.

    Thanks for taking a look.

    #105092
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    I spent most of the day today working on the rear cage. This involved a lot of head scratching and thinking to finally decided how I wanted it to look. I was originally going to build a conventional style roll cage the height of the cab, but as I really want to keep the weight low I chose to lower the cage. I was a little unsure how it would look, but I’m really happy with the result.

    Someone on Instagram asked me how I hold the part together when I’m brazing. The simple answer is I use what ever will do the job. In this example I used an old servo box, 2 clamps and a cable tie.

    As I spent all day working on the cage, I seemed to be a bit of a mental zone, and therefore forgot to take pics as I went a long. So, here’s the final cage.

    And here it is all mounted up.

    I’m not sure yet whether I’m going to keep the spare tire or not. I do like the look, but it kind of goes against my plan of keeping the weight low. I guess I’ll see how it performs with and without.

    Next up will be to tidy up the rear of the chassis, and make up a winch bumper.

    #105093
    Member
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    ScaleAddict
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    Very nice and clean. Never it’s too much effort when making the foundations of a new build

    #105094
    Member
    Grasshopper
    Grasshopper
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Sublime work as usual, sir.

    A friend who’s new to all this got a TRX4 Sport too and when I asked him about batteries he said that you have to use Traxxas ones and they’re £70 each! Now I’m sure there’s ways to use non-Traxxas Lipos on these but it just highlights for me why I don’t like Traxxas much – they seem to be the Apple of RC… Having said that, like Apple, they do make good products (if you’re willing to pay the premium!)

    Sorry for the slight tangent there! I’m interested to see what direction you’re going with the paint

    Axial SCX10 Dingo D90    RC4WD TF2 Hilux     RC4WD G2 D90

    #105095
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    That sounds like something a model shop would say to their customers. I would imagine It’s because Traxxas insist you on using their own connectors if you want to keep your warranty with them. Standard practice i guess. But other than that, there is no reason to keep their connectors. But, i’d never use their electrics anyway so would always us XT60’s.

    Not decided on colour yet, or whether to paint the outside as well as the inside. Few more jobs to do on it before have to decide that though.

    #105110
    Sysop
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    Retrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Beautiful work as always, love the way this sits, it has a really compact and solid look about it.

    #105115
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    I spent some time this week thinking about what I wanted the winch bumper to look like. I was originally going to use a RC4WD Warn winch I had and started to make the bumper. But, once the first part was mounted and I sat the winch on I wasn’t really feeling it. Mostly, because the bumper had to stick out so far to house the winch, the approach angle suffered.

    Here’s the start.

    So on to mark 2. I’m not going to use a servo winch, so this bumper can be nicely tucked in against the body.

    I always start with the 2 mounting brackets.

    And as usual recently, I got carried away building it and forgot to take some pics. So, here it is done.

    The last piece of metal work on this truck was the spare wheel mount. I thought I’d make use of the rear shock towers as they seemed to be in a perfect spot.

    And once again, here it is done.

    Next up will hopefully be the paint, and install the electrics.

    #105157
    Sysop
    Avatar
    Retrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Drop dead gorgeous as always, a real pleasure to watch this come together.

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