Scale RC Forum Forum Members’ Builds Off-Road builds Just a Bobbed Hilux for FUN!

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 113 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #65880
    Member
    GrasshopperGrasshopper
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★
    Quote:
    Such top drawer craftmanship every step of the way, it is :jawdrop:

    Superb stuff, keep it coming.

    +1 all day, inspiring stuff!

    Axial SCX10 Dingo D90    RC4WD TF2 Hilux     RC4WD G2 D90

    #66490
    Member
    toyolientoyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★
    Retrocosm wrote:
    Such top drawer craftmanship every step of the way, it is :jawdrop:

    Superb stuff, keep it coming.

    Thank you. More photos on their way.

    Grasshopper wrote:
    +1 all day, inspiring stuff!

    Thanks very much Grasshopper.

    I think i’m finally done with the interior, and for my first attempt, i’m pretty pleased. It’s now ready for paint and detailing. I’ve also used up some CC Hand door cards that I got in a sale at RC Mart. They are meant for the Bruiser interior, but because i’ve made my interior much lower, they don’t got fully to the bottom of the door. I was a little concerned that they wouldn’t look right, but I think when the styrene is painted black (or maybe carpeted), they’ll look spot on!

    So first up, is this costume necklace. Now, having done this, i’m not that happy with it. I’ll explain why below.
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    Now that i’ve fitted the gear knobs, I think that they look a little out of place. I also think that the diameter of the gear sticks is a little too big, so once painted I may remake both of these. I’ve made them a push fit, so I can easily remove them later on.

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    View from underneath. I am still waiting on the slipper clutch removal kit from Lockeduprc, and so hadn’t yet fitted the shaft from the transmission to the transfer box. I overlooked this and when I test fitted it, it rubbed on the bottom of the interior base. So, out came the dremel and fixed it.

    Iv4XNJU.jpg
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    That’s as much as I could get done tonight. Next up will be to make the wheel wells, then finally fit all the electrics. Then I just need to prep the body ready for paint. I need to trim the front wheel arches a little as the tires rub on full lock. Still not decided on the best method yet, so i’ll have a think about that.

    Thanks for looking.

    #65881
    Member
    GrasshopperGrasshopper
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    That looks ace, such a clean build. I love the ingenuity of using found objects like the necklace and re purposing them. The interior is great, what did you use for the gearstick gators, if I may ask? Nice touch.

    The rear shock set up looks to be a little limiting with the bed compared to the way the TF2 shocks fit at an angle – but with the four link instead of leafs it will probably still afford more flex than the stock TF2..

    Can’t wait to see what colour you’re going with..

    Axial SCX10 Dingo D90    RC4WD TF2 Hilux     RC4WD G2 D90

    #66499
    Member
    toyolientoyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Thank you. The gear stick gators are these. They are from mountain bike V-Brakes. The joys of having a bike shop i guess…

    23904.jpg

    The rear flex seems to be plenty good enough i think. I started with the Dinkyrc cantilever set up, so may go back to that if i find that the flex isn’t enough. Although the main reason for ditching the cantilever was just because i prefer the look of a proper shock in the wheel wells. And, to be honest, i think flex is over rated to some degree. So, we’ll see how it goes after the first test drive.

    #65882
    Member
    GrasshopperGrasshopper
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Cool idea with the gators and I agree with the cantilever look – not a fan.

    Quote:
    And, to be honest, i think flex is over rated to some degree

    Funny you should say that, I’ve been watching Tuff truck vids after some inspiration from Retrocosm and the main thing that struck me is how stock the travel seems and how it doesn’t hinder them getting over some crazy terrain.

    Axial SCX10 Dingo D90    RC4WD TF2 Hilux     RC4WD G2 D90

    #65883
    Member
    Fourth ProtocolFourth Protocol
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Cantilevers work great on my Skeleton J2, as long as it doesn’t get too heavy. The second J2 has normal shocks that work with heavier bodies. You had me thinking hard about putting my Hilux body onto one of the J2s but I have 4 unused chassis lying about to my next one will be a ’70 El Camino on a leaf-sprung CMax.

    #65884
    Member
    toyolientoyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    So, i wasn’t happy with the gear levers and gear knobs of my first attempt. Tonight, i had another go. This time i reduced the diameter of the shafts and made my own gear knobs. And now, i am much happier.

    What do you think?

    jD4A8SP.jpg

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    One thing i have realised is how a build like this takes over your life! I don’t think i’ve though about much else for months now… Can’t wait to finish it. I’ve got a couple of builds lined up next, but neither will be as time consuming as this one. I’ve got an MF-01X Jimny and then a Sand Scorcher…

    Thanks for looking as usual.

    #65885
    Member
    grubbybuzgrubbybuz
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Thats some pretty awesome interior work ::cool

    #66501
    Member
    toyolientoyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★
    grubbybuz wrote:
    Thats some pretty awesome interior work ::cool

    Thank you. The interior had been the most enjoyable part of the build so far.

    I got all the electrics installed this evening. It was a very tight fit, but everything except the battery is all at the front under the hood. Including the Heyok servo winch and remote winch controller.

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    So, i’m finally getting towards the end of this little build. I have a few more odds and ends to tie up before i get to start painting everything. There is a lot of stuff to paint. The driver, dash, interior, door cards, seats, sliders, cage, bumpers, spare tire mount, steering links and body.

    #66518
    Member
    toyolientoyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    I’ve not updated for a while because I’ve been busy re-doing a couple of things. Firstly, I’ve has to slightly alter the interior to make the body a little easier to drop over. That in itself didn’t take too long, but i spent (wasted) a few evening trying things before ending up with a solution!

    Then secondly, i hadn’t really thought about the comp rule regarding battery mounting. I’d planned to have battery hidden on top of the rear links under the bed. Not a massive issue in general, but i do plan on doing a few comps so decided to relocate the battery now rather than having to do it later (probably the night before the first comp, knowing me…). So, I’ve made a tray that’s added onto the back of the interior base, and fits underneath the rear bed.

    First up, i needed some inner fenders. Spotted these:

    EOiFGUd.jpg
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    And here’s the relocated battery:

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    I think i’m ready to start the painting. I didn’t realise how much painting there is to do…

    Skm9VC2.jpg

    Thanks for looking, again!

    #65886
    Member
    GrasshopperGrasshopper
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    As ever, looking VERY tidy!

    I’ve used tubs and bottles as inner fenders but always struggled getting paint to key into it, I thought PS paints would be best as that sort of plastic is closer to Lexan than ABS etc. but it always ended up cracking and peeling off eventually.. Are you going to prime and use automotive paints for that?

    Can’t wait to see it all painted up ;popcorn;

    Axial SCX10 Dingo D90    RC4WD TF2 Hilux     RC4WD G2 D90

    #66519
    Sysop
    AvatarRetrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    It’s certainly a challenge getting everything to fit up front with the J2 chassis. I was worried on my JK about overheating issues but am pleased to say it has been fine. Very neat job you’ve done there!

    Retrocosm On YouTube   Instagram   Website   Twitter   Facebook JSScale Team Driver

    #66611
    Sysop
    AvatarRetrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★
    Grasshopper wrote:
    As ever, looking VERY tidy!

    I’ve used tubs and bottles as inner fenders but always struggled getting paint to key into it, I thought PS paints would be best as that sort of plastic is closer to Lexan than ABS etc. but it always ended up cracking and peeling off eventually.. Are you going to prime and use automotive paints for that?

    Can’t wait to see it all painted up ;popcorn;

    I found the best solution is to Plastidip the fenders, you get a really good coating that adheres strongly and as a bonus has a finish very similar to the sort of coating you often find on 1:1s. Also you can use very thin plastic initially, such as an ice cream carton and the Plastidip will add additional structural rigidty.

    Retrocosm On YouTube   Instagram   Website   Twitter   Facebook JSScale Team Driver

    #66612
    Member
    toyolientoyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Thanks for the tips, chaps!

    I’ve done a little reading on painting shiny plastics, and it would appear that even keying well and using plastic primer doesn’t do a great job. But i have read of people having good results in using pva glue as a base, then adding the primer and paint. So, i’m going to try that with a sample piece and see where that goes first.

    Retrocosm: Do you use plastidip spray paint? Straight on or with a primer first?

    #66618
    Sysop
    AvatarRetrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    I’ve had success just by roughing up and then thoroughly cleaning the plastic and simply dipping the whole thing into the pot of Plastidip and hanging it over the pot for the excess to drain/drip back in. I’ve not used the spray before but if it’s the same formula I have to assume it should stick without the need for primer.

    Retrocosm On YouTube   Instagram   Website   Twitter   Facebook JSScale Team Driver

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 113 total)

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