This topic contains 101 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by Pete Attryde 5 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #67318
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    M and M
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    What wheelbase have you ended up at?

    #67320
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    Pete Attryde
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    M and M wrote:
    What wheelbase have you ended up at?

    The stock shell 1:9 is around 225mm/8.86″ this one will be a little longer, as I have modified the front and rear wheel arches and pushed the grill forward slightly to allow for a small stretch, I am aiming for around 230mm/9″ but I need the chassis rails to finalise it.

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    #67321
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    Pete Attryde
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    Had a chance to sneak off to the shed today ::eek

    So started work on the chassis for the little Jeep.

    Now the 1:1 chassis (for Rango) was built by the owner from some 4″x 2″ steel box section and he very kindly provided a PDF in his build thread with the dimensions. I couldn’t find any box section, steel or brass that was of the correct scaled down size, actually that’s not quite true as I did find some brass but enough sections came to about £80 ::doh::. So I have gone for 10mm x 4mm steel bar as it was as close to the correct size as I could get and cost a grand total of £8 for 2 lengths.

    The design is really simple as can be seen in the PDF, the worst part was drilling all the holes in the side plates.

    FwW6Lzq.png

    I got both main rails cut and brazed and also managed to cut and drill all 4 side and started attaching them to the main rail.

    p0DSM40.jpg

    Here are a couple of the body sitting on the rails.

    sRu3taa.jpg

    uWeNHqg.jpg

    I have also made a start on figuring out the transmission and transfer case, I should have some progress shots later in the week..

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    #67383
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    Pete Attryde
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    Today was mostly spent modifying an SCX-10 II gear/transfer case to fit the body. The gear-reduction unit has a 5:1 ratio and is fitted to a 380 motor. I had to make an adapter plate to be able to bolt the gear reduction unit to the gearbox and made a new top shaft for the transmission to allow the drive to be connected.

    lydUOqF.jpg

    Had to cut the floor slightly to allow the transmission to sit as high in the chassis as possible, but I think I got it fairly well tucked in ;-)

    coVdT44.jpg

    This shot shows how much the transfer case will hang down below the chassis rail.

    6K5al1g.jpg

    The clown shoes also arrived this week, thanks to Martin @RCbitz.

    6xKdn4g.jpg

    This is the kind of stance I am aiming for,

    eBuePl3.jpg

    I am currently waiting for some new leaf springs to arrive and then I can continue with the axles.

    More as it happens, thanks as usual for looking.

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    #66965
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    Tyke
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    What tyres are they Pete??
    The 380, cobolt???

    #67424
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    Pete Attryde
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    tyke wrote:
    What tyres are they Pete??
    The 380, cobolt???

    The tires are RC4WD 1.55 Scrambler Offroads

    Motor is a plain old Tamiya sport tuned 380 brushed, the Cobalts are too long.

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    #66966
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    Tyke
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    ::thumb::

    #66967
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    Grasshopper
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    Love it. Not a Jeep fan but the Willys are something else, they look great with some mods and ‘clown shoes’ :-)

    I just read through (most of) the Pirate thread and I like how you’ve even copied his home made chassis rails. Should be a cool build – I hope it doesn’t give you as much grief as the 1:1 build gave Mieser!

    Axial SCX10 Dingo    RC4WD TF2 Hilux     RC4WD G2 D90     WPL C14

    #67435
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    Pete Attryde
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    Grasshopper wrote:
    Love it. Not a Jeep fan but the Willys are something else, they look great with some mods and ‘clown shoes’ :-)

    I just read through (most of) the Pirate thread and I like how you’ve even copied his home made chassis rails. Should be a cool build – I hope it doesn’t give you as much grief as the 1:1 build gave Mieser!

    It’s quite an epic thread but I liked the way he engineered his way around things (making his own tools etc)

    Tiny bit more done today,

    main chassis rails are finished and joined with front and rear cross members

    2XzzYIh.jpg

    xrZN4nw.jpg

    RenODrG.jpg

    Also started making the leaf springs as all the commercially available ones are too long or too short and too wide ::rolleye.

    HBRGay1.jpg

    raKcC96.jpg

    These have been cold formed using a round nose set of pliers, from a recoil starter spring. I will be adding helpers as I think they are going to be a bit too soft.

    Next task will be making gearbox and motor mounts, but that won’t be till next weekend I suspect.

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    #89132
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    Pete Attryde
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    I have not made a huge amount of progress on this recently as work/illness/other projects have gotten in the way, however today I got the majority of the front axle sorted, (needs one spring perch). I opted to modify a cheap set of alloy SCX-10 II casings that I found on ebay.

    I have removed the original axle tubes and made new steel ones, I then modified the c-hubs to fit, using the splined end of the original axle tube and some work in the lathe. I am using cheap alloy knuckles which I may attack with the dremel to make them look less bulky. The rea axle will be easier as I just need to make new steel tubes and some steel bearing retainers for the outer ends. The pin to pin measurement is around 170mm with the pumpkin offset to the correct side.

    I hope tomorrow to get the axle completely mounted up and be able to move on to the rear.

    More as it happens, and thanks as always for your interest.

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    #90426
    Member

    M and M
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    Glad to see you back at the bench. I’ve been hoping this would continue..great innovative work as usual.

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    #92110
    Sysop

    Retrocosm
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    Agreed, glad to see you back on this I’m really looking forward to seeing it come together

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    #96287
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    Pete Attryde
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    Glad to see you back at the bench. I’ve been hoping this would continue..great innovative work as usual.

    Agreed, glad to see you back on this I’m really looking forward to seeing it come together

    Cheers Chaps, I got side tracked by the Coyote but as that is more or less done now I am back on this full time for the moment.

    Ok so I didn’t quite make as much progress as I hoped, however the front end will now support it’s own weight, although I do still need to make up some U-bolts to replace the copper wire holding the axle to the springs.

    I also narrowed the axle by 10mm (5mm off each side) as I wasn’t happy with the stance when looking at it from straight ahead, fortunately this hasn’t to badly impacted on the steering angle.

    This will be full lock as the tire is almost touching the frame rail

    Unladen it currently sits at about 60mm to the underside of the frame rails which isn’t to bad, I expect to loose about 5mm once all the weight is in.

    Had a go at removing the fins from one of the diff covers, needs a coat of paint but I think I shall be doing the other one too.

    Thanks as usual for looking, more as it happens.

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    #96318
    Sysop

    Retrocosm
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    That’s a pretty good steering angle given how wide those Scramblers are, I bought a set not realising quite how wide they mount up.

    #96325
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    Pete Attryde
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    That’s a pretty good steering angle given how wide those Scramblers are, I bought a set not realising quite how wide they mount up.

    Yeah they are wide, nearly 45mm I have to be honest I thought it was going have a much worse steering angle than it appears it’s going to have. I am glad I could make the steerin work with these tires as I feel they suit this perfectly, due to the width of the tires fitted on the inspiration 1:1, but I can they could cause issue on other rigs.

     

    Managed a bit more today, didn’t do the U-bolts, but did do the rear axle.

    I started off with one of these,

    applied a hacksaw,a file and an 8mm drill bit and ended up with this

    then made a few bit’s out of steel (which I forgot to photograph) and joined them all together and ende up with this

    also made and mounted the lower shock mounts on the fron axle.

    The last piece of fab work today was to shorten one shaft I did this by cutting the shaft at the inner end of the bearing spacer and then (in the lathe)faced the cut and drilled a 4mm diameter 15mm deep hole. The inner section of shaft was then shortened by 5mm and fitted into the outer section and soldered. The picture shows the change in length against an unmodified shaft ( I hadn’t soldered it at this point.)

    The casings are now hanging in the shed with the first coat of primer drying on them.

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