Scale RC Forum Forum Members’ Builds Forum’s Finest Builds Bones SCX10 Landrover D90 Build

This topic contains 291 replies, has 22 voices, and was last updated by bakerboy 1 year, 5 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 292 total)
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  • #38406
    Member

    Bill
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★
    Earl wrote:
    bill wrote:
    My ball ends have got scratches all over them now :blink: 😆 😆 😆 😆

    Well stop dragging them over rocks then smiley-shocked003.gifsmiley-shocked003.gif

    Can’t help it mate, I’m set up for droop.

    #38407
    Member
    Earl
    Earl
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★
    bill wrote:
    Earl wrote:
    bill wrote:
    My ball ends have got scratches all over them now :blink: 😆 😆 😆 😆

    Well stop dragging them over rocks then smiley-shocked003.gifsmiley-shocked003.gif

    Can’t help it mate, I’m set up for droop.

    PMSL!!

    #38199
    Member

    Bone
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    Update with problems :(

    Links made
    xKHTmFO.jpg
    DuEgtay.jpg
    1vDGgyr.jpg

    Chassis
    axOSPV2.jpg

    Problems

    1, I had to space the servo up to clear the ball ends.
    CtRf7BR.jpg

    2, Servo hit cross member when suspension is compressed. I’ve spaced it a bit but its still very close and might chafe my wire.
    htksy5h.jpg

    3, Both drive shafts bind and you really have to force it to turn them. I think the angle is too steep?
    rBjdrMl.jpg
    vu4mMuR.jpg

    4, The wheelbase is too long, it’s at 283mm. The front looks good but the rear is wrong.
    Gjxobqu.jpg

    #38496
    Member

    69tony12
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    looking really good but looks like the rear links could do with a little shave

    #38200
    Member

    Bill
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    I’ve just been looking at my old scx10 d90 build thread and I recon it’s the new style drive shafts not liking the extreme angle.

    Also on my build I chopped 6mm off of the front of my chassis to make it work the way I wanted it. So it might be that this the case for you and actually the rear is correct and you need to look at the front.

    Was a long time ago though, and there’s plenty of other d90 builds since

    http://www.ukrcrc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14064&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

    #38201

    Anonymous
    • Looking For Mud

    just looked through your pics mate….

    cant help you with the rod ends touching the servo mount, i dont use the truss on the front, i use the axial bender customs 4 link servo mount with axial rod ends with no issues at all.

    the servo did touch the diagonal parts of the brace, i cut mine out and its now fine

    the drive shafts are very steep especially on the front but i would wait until its at its running weight with all electrics in and body on, it will drop a bit more lessening the angle.
    for the rear, add a couple of mm to the upper link lengths and it will clock the axle, again lessening the steepness of the angle.

    as for the link lengths, the numbers i gave give me a wheelbase of 277mm which is about bang on, again using axial hardware…..

    #38498
    Member

    Bone
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★
    gaz wrote:
    just looked through your pics mate….

    cant help you with the rod ends touching the servo mount, i dont use the truss on the front, i use the axial bender customs 4 link servo mount with axial rod ends with no issues at all.

    the servo did touch the diagonal parts of the brace, i cut mine out and its now fine

    the drive shafts are very steep especially on the front but i would wait until its at its running weight with all electrics in and body on, it will drop a bit more lessening the angle.
    for the rear, add a couple of mm to the upper link lengths and it will clock the axle, again lessening the steepness of the angle.

    as for the link lengths, the numbers i gave give me a wheelbase of 277mm which is about bang on, again using axial hardware…..

    The rod ends now clear the servo plate as ive spaced it (you can see in the pic)
    The drive shafts are EXACTLY at the same angle front and back. If you push the suspension down its only slightly better, no good :(

    Ive done the links to the same length as you bud. Not sure whats going on.

    #38202

    Anonymous
    • Looking For Mud

    for your wheelbase, take a couple of mm at a time off the lower links, until you hit a sweet spot, dont take as much off the top links, then thats the rear driveshaft sorted.
    as i say, the lengths i have given work perfectly using axial parts, cant be sure using other stuff, maybe more trial and error with that, but dont shorten the front anymore, its easier to shorten and “clock” the rear axle over the front one, but if you keep those driveshafts you may have to clock the front one too……

    the front angle on mine is very steep but im running rc4wd punisher shafts and they work fine.

    #38203
    Member

    Bone
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    What do you mean “clock” the axle?

    #38204

    Anonymous
    • Looking For Mud

    Hello mate clicking the axle refers to rotating it either forward or backwards. As for the link length, it’s possiblE I’ve measured wrong … Even 1mm would give a 4mm error in the total lengths … Don’t spose you have a hole to hole measurement do you Gaz? The shafts on my chassis even biNd at the orininal length … But that’s with no weight.

    #38205
    Member

    Bone
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    Is it ok to have the top and bottom links the same length?

    #38500

    Anonymous
    • Looking For Mud
    Damohick wrote:
    Hello mate clicking the axle refers to rotating it either forward or backwards. As for the link length, it’s possiblE I’ve measured wrong … Even 1mm would give a 4mm error in the total lengths … Don’t spose you have a hole to hole measurement do you Gaz? The shafts on my chassis even biNd at the orininal length … But that’s with no weight.

    using axial rod ends, eye to eye on the lower links its 110mm.

    the rod ends measure 12mm from the hole centre to the end that meets the link. B)

    #38206
    Member

    Bone
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    My lower links are 110mm

    #38207
    Member

    Bill
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Standing back and looking at this, have maybe some of the bracketery around the chassis or axles been revamped slightly, thus throwing dimensions out.

    I would load the chassis up with all that it will have fitted, measure your wheelbase. We know it needs to be 276/277mm then start shortening your links.
    Because the links are angled the amount you remove will not be as much as the wheelbase shortens.

    #38502
    Member

    Bone
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★
    bill wrote:
    Standing back and looking at this, have maybe some of the bracketery around the chassis or axles been revamped slightly, thus throwing dimensions out.

    I would load the chassis up with all that it will have fitted, measure your wheelbase. We know it needs to be 276/277mm then start shortening your links.
    Because the links are angled the amount you remove will not be as much as the wheelbase shortens.

    I havent got all the bits yet and the wheel base doesn’t change much anyway. I need to angle the axles up slightly to get the driveshafts to work. I’m working on the rear at the mo.

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