Scale RC Forum Forum Members’ Builds Off-Road builds Another Hilux. A Bobbed Comp Truck.

This topic contains 28 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by Retrocosm 1 month, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 14 posts - 16 through 29 (of 29 total)
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  • #103728
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    While I was deciding exactly what to do with the bed, I thought I’d make a start assembling the wheels. I like adding a little weight to the wheels as I’ve found it helps bed in the leaf springs, and make them work better. So, I bent up some of the wheel weights I have to fit the profile of the inner rings.

    For tires, I’ve decided to go with Rock Stompers. But, I wanted to try to make them work a little better, so I took to giving them a cut or two.

    And, this evening I finally made a start on bobbing the bed. I decided to cut as much out as I can without having to remove the rear chassis cross member. I’ll need to trim a little of the chassis rails, but the cross member can stay in.

    Some patience, and careful measuring and here we are.

    To rejoin the bed I use some pieces of the strip I cut out. With Mek it bonds amazing well, and is as strong as the original bed.

    That’s where I’m up to so far.

    #103729
    Member
    raven62
    raven62
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    Looks good.

    But, what is MEK?

    Regards

    Ralf

    #103731
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Looks good. But, what is MEK?

    MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is the solvent used in plastic bonding agents such as Bondene and Plasticweld. It works better neat as is much cheaper. I bought a Litre bottle for about £6!

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #103739
    Sysop

    Retrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    We have a successful bob, your straight lines are much straighterer than mine were.  I bought some M.E.K. once, I didn’t use it straight away, forgot about it, returned to the bottle about six months later and it was empty, the lid was on tight and it had never been opened.  It had all evaporated, most peculiar.

    #103741
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    We have a successful bob, your straight lines are much straighterer than mine were. I bought some M.E.K. once, I didn’t use it straight away, forgot about it, returned to the bottle about six months later and it was empty, the lid was on tight and it had never been opened. It had all evaporated, most peculiar.

    Thanks. Usually I have absolutely NO patience with jobs like this. I want to do it in 5 mintues and move on. However, if there is only one thing I’ve learnt doing these few recent builds, it’s that the best way to get good results is to really take your time at every stage, and for that, my patience has got so much better. Instead of trying to get it done all in one evening, i allow myself a week.

    The next thing i think i would like to master is weathering. I’d like to weather my scale garage and this Hilux body. So, any tips would be great as the weathering on your Hammond build is amazing!

    Odd about your Mek too. I’ve had mine for 2 years, and i don’t think I’ve lost (evaporated) a drop! It is good stuff though. Especially on RC4WD plastic!

    #103744
    Sysop

    Retrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Thanks. Usually I have absolutely NO patience with jobs like this. I want to do it in 5 mintues and move on. However, if there is only one thing I’ve learnt doing these few recent builds, it’s that the best way to get good results is to really take your time at every stage, and for that, my patience has got so much better. Instead of trying to get it done all in one evening, i allow myself a week. The next thing i think i would like to master is weathering. I’d like to weather my scale garage and this Hilux body. So, any tips would be great as the weathering on your Hammond build is amazing! Odd about your Mek too. I’ve had mine for 2 years, and i don’t think I’ve lost (evaporated) a drop! It is good stuff though. Especially on RC4WD plastic!

    I feel the same way, my patience has improved a little and it does undoubtedly pay dividends.  I used Evostick pipe weld on my bob, it certainly welded it well, I should imagine it has some MEK in it.

    I’m very much self taught through trial and error on the weathering.  I would strongly recommend getting yourself a pot of Agrax Earthshade from Games Workshop.  It’s a wash that seems to work like magic.  You can apply it to details such as hinges and shut lines etc and it gives them extra depth and realism.

    I also like to apply it liberally to my bodywork with a brush and then immediately dab and wipe it away to varying levels with a piece of kitchen roll, leaves a great dirty/weathered finish.  If you want something even darker there’s one called Nuln Oil in the same range. Tamiya weathering kits are also excellent and for rust I use a product called Scenic Rust.

    Only other thing I can think of at the moment is Scotch-Brite pads which are great for dulling and fading paint.

    #103745
    Member
    raven62
    raven62
    • Scaling Like A Pro
    • ★★★★★

    Thanks for your weathering tips. I‘ll give it a try at the foremost.

    Btw:

    I have guggeled mek:

    Mek is a chemical neighbour of Aceton.

    In Germany Aceton is more usual. I use it often for degreasing metal, glue plastics and modelling plastics.

    Regards

    Ralf

    #103817
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Next instalment.

    I filled in the gap that runs the length of the rear light lenses, and added the supports for the tail gate and the long bed joint.

    This one will require next to no filling. Really pleased.

    Next job was to shorten the chassis rails so that they fitted underneath the bobbed bed.

    Then, painted the anti wrap bar and fitted it to the rear axle.

    Next up was the shocks. I opted for the rc4wd Bilstein shock. These are by far the best rc4wd shocks I’ve ever built. They are super smooth, and the shock shafts seem way more solid that the Old Man Emu shocks I build a while back. I filled them up with 7000wt diff oil.

    The 2 fixing bolts in the GCM transmission that I used for my mount were m2.5. One of them stripped pretty easily so I drilled and tapped them to m3. Perfect now.

    And I added some front leaf mounts from A & M Garages.

    Underside view of the anti wrap bar.

    And lastly, a test fit of the wheels and tires.

    Next up will be fitting the body, working out the battery location and starting to think about the bumpers and roll bar I guess. Thanks for looking.

    #103818
    Sysop

    Retrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    It’s an absolute joy to follow your builds, beautifully executed and photographed.  I have to confess I wasn’t even aware of those newish shocks from RC4WD, they look good.

    If you’re thinking of weathering this one don’t fill your bob lines with filler, fill them with rust 😉

    #103819
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    It’s an absolute joy to follow your builds, beautifully executed and photographed. I have to confess I wasn’t even aware of those newish shocks from RC4WD, they look good. If you’re thinking of weathering this one don’t fill your bob lines with filler, fill them with rust 😉

    Thanks Charlie. These Bilstein shocks are lovely!

    I was either going to fill the bed joint and then re-create another weld line a little further in so as not to disturb the original joint. Or, i’d thought about creating some weld looking strips of rc4wd plastic and bonding them over the original joint. But, i’d need to experiment with this idea to getting it looking how i want it to. It would mean sanding some strips of the Hilux body parts tree to get the strips to the right size.

    I’ve had a quick go at creating some scale welds with a soldering iron, but i’m not happy with how it looks. It looks like recessed holes rather that protruding welds (see below) so i need to re think my technique…

     

    #103825
    Sysop

    Retrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Welding lines would look very cool, your first attempt looks pretty good but I agree it needs refining.  I’ve also only just noticed that you’ve cut your tyres, I must have skipped past that post, so cool!

    #103829
    Member
    Starscream
    Starscream
    • Ready To Trail
    • ★★

    Would something like this be any use for making the welds on the bed? I’ve used them before for 1/35th scale armour and they look pretty convincing. Not sure if the biggest ones would be too small for a 1/10 truck or not but you could always claim that the guy who did the welding was extremely talented

    http://archertransfers.com/AR88005.html

    #104542
    Member
    toyolien
    toyolien
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    So, I’ve had a little change of direction on this one. I’ve decided to ditch the bed floor and tailgate, go with a caged rear with just the 2 bed sides attached. I have an idea of how I want it to look in my head, so I hope it turns out ok.

    As there won’t be a bed floor I decided to stand the rear shocks up.

    Chopped the read bed up.

    For the more complex bends I start by drawing out the shape I want. Mark the centre line and work outwards from there. I tried to show in a few photos my process for doing it.

    And lastly for now, I started on the mounting points for the main hoop. I did make up 2 different mounts but wasn’t too happy with them. I then decided to bolt the 2 plates together so that they were exactly the right distance apart, perfectly square, and more importantly, stayed in place while I brazed them.

    The larger hole is for the 5mm base at the base of the cage, and the smaller hole are to bolt them together. The smaller holes will be removed later on.

    And mounted to the chassis. Everything lines up spot on!

    That’s my lot for now.

    #104545
    Sysop

    Retrocosm
    • Scale Off Road Pro
    • ★★★★★★

    Superb work as always, I do love the way you document your builds and it’s great to get an insight into the process you follow. I’m convinced you must be a surgeon in the real world.

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